By Doug Trattner
Imagine an urban district where residents routinely
forsake their cars when heading out for a night of shopping, eating
and merrymaking. A town where independently owned groceries, taverns
and cafes—all built into majestic, centuries-old brick structures—
flourish in an environment completely devoid of big box retailers.
No, this is not some European hamlet we’re talking about—it’s
our very own Ohio City.
Nearby Tremont may corner the market on cutting-edge
dining venues, but when it comes to actual markets, Ohio City stands
head and shoulders above the competition. And Ohio City has its
share of distinctive eateries, many of which parade the tastes and
treats of like-minded European villages for a fraction of the price.
Of course, we all need a local tavern at which to cap off the night;
and if it’s staggering distance from home, all the better.
Being economical in both theory and practice, we endeavored
to fill the hours between 5 and 11 p.m. with shopping, dining, and
a little partying tossed in for good measure. And we hoped do so
for under $20 each, going Dutch, naturally.
![](../images/images_FW04/outty_grocery1.jpg)
Photos: Steve Cutri |
The Ohio City odyssey began at Hansa
Import Haus, a faux Swiss chalet building (on Lorain Avenue
between W. 26th and W. 28th streets) that we've passed countless
times. Truth be told, we had not stepped foot inside because, frankly,
we didn’t have the faintest notion of what the hell went on
there.
Crossing the kitsch threshold, we’re enveloped
by a cornucopia of German, Austrian and Swiss products. A cooler
upfront is crammed with German butters, cheeses and sausages. Rows
of grocery store shelving sag beneath the weight of a bewildering
inventory of Bavarian imports. In cans, jars, boxes and bags, hard-to-find
products such as heather honey and the delectable Viennese dessert,
kaiserschmarrn, wait for homesick
immigrants.
Owner Boris Music tells us that Hansa Haus has been
serving Cleveland’s German (and not-so-German) community for
more than 40 years. Hansa also carries the area’s largest
inventory of German and Austrian beer and wine, including the incredibly
rare Rauchbier Special ($3.89/half
liter), a smoke beer from Bamberg.
After browsing at Hansa Haus, we’ve developed
an appetite, not to mention a vigorous thirst. A mere block away
sits Market Avenue Wine Bar, Cleveland’s first and best bar
devoted to wines by the glass. Located on a picturesque cobblestone
alley, Market Avenue Wine Bar has
the look and feel of an authentic Old World café.
Dark woods, exposed brick and candlelight welcome
the couple as they take seats at the spacious bar. Manager Joy Valentine
presents a concise menu of wine-friendly tapas
(literally, small plates), along with a lengthier menu boasting
approximately 70 wines by the glass.
We settle on a light meal—a cheese board laden
with warm and crusty French bread, Italian prosciutto, Irish cheddar,
smoked Gouda and an assortment of seasonal fruits ($8.75). Valentine
recommends two affordable wines, which prove to be well-suited to
chasing bites of bread and cheese: The Solitude Cotes du Rhone ($5.50)
and Marquis Phillips Verdejo ($5.50).
From the far end of the bar, a benevolent customer
offers guests sample pours from his open bottle of vintage French
Champagne. To the frugal duo, this comes as a welcome indulgence.
It is also a fitting one, considering that our next
stop is the tiny creperie, Le
Oui Oui Café. After paying the tab and bundling up
for the five-block scramble west, the twosome set out to scare up
some dessert. Following the Euro theme, Le Oui Oui (located on the
corner of Fulton Road and Bridge Avenue) faces an old-world town
square, complete with towering stone church, Victorian homes, storefronts
and a stunningly ornate Carnegie West library.
Ohio City couple Denajua and Didier recently sold
the café to Ohio City resident Andrew Waterson and moved
back to Paris. Still, the creperie offers Clevelanders a slice of
the Parisian café culture, right down to the imported cheeses,
preserves, teas and coffees. Just six tables occupy the quaint,
dimly lit space, and, on this night, they are occupied by blissful
guests savoring the house fondues. Though the fondue smells intoxicating,
the parsimonious pair opts to split a Nutella and banana-stuffed
dessert crepe ($4.75). Pots of still-brewing French press espresso
($2.50 each) are delivered alongside the warm, folded crepe.
Larger than anticipated, the crepe more than satisfies
what remains of our hunger. While eavesdropping on the surrounding
tables’ conversations, we finish our brew in silence.
Looking for a little trouble to end the night, we
decide to hit Ohio City’s newest—and by all accounts—hottest
bar, The Garage. Fueled by crepe
and coffee, we hardly notice the 10-minute walk down Bridge Avenue
to W. 25th Street. After all, we’re itching to cut loose a
little after the romantic interlude—and from what we’ve
heard, The Garage is just the ticket.
Using the biker/cruiser idolization of the Seventies
as his inspiration, owner Jeff Allison created a car enthusiast’s
dream. Durable black tool chests stand in as the back bar. Gleaming
white racing stripes zip clear down the polished red bar top. And
retro fuel pumps have been customized to dispense pints of Guinness
rather than gallons of fuel.
The Garage is also a paean to the classic rock of
the Seventies and Eighties. When the deejay isn’t spinning
vinyl up in the crow’s nest, fans of Guns & Roses, Foreigner
and AC-DC can plug in the jukebox. Before sidling up to the bar,
we slide a bill into the juke and settle on three songs from Billy
Squire.
Seated now, the couple takes the bartender up on her
suggestion and orders two of the house specialty—Oil and Gas
($4 each). So named because the layered cocktail resembles an oil
slick resting on a puddle of gas, Oil and Gas is actually black
vodka and Red Fuel—and, like their night in Ohio City, it
kicks ass!
Totaling up their respective tabs, each is elated
to learn that the outlay for the entire night comes to just $19.25
per person, including the buck for the jukebox.
Let’s just pray the cheap bastards remembered
to tip along the way.
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Hansa Import Haus
2701 Lorain Avenue
216-281-3177
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Market Avenue Wine Bar
2526 Market Avenue
216-696-9463
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Le Oui Oui Café
1881 Fulton Road
216-281-1881
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The Garage
1859 W. 25th Street
216-696-7772
Bruce home
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